In the end I have to re-cut the whole lot because the wood splinters out or the spindle grabs a chunk out of the wood or it just does not fit nice and flush. When I cut the groove where the stile and rail meet, I make a hash of the job. Ours are anywhere from 3/4" to 10", all depending on design - French, Italian, English, Russian, rustic, neo classical, African, Appalachian abstract, and sometimes arts and crafts Asian contemporary retro, etc.I'd appreciate some help with the way I'm making stiles and rails. I use 3" rails and 2-1/4" stiles for that very reason. To contributor E: I agree on the width variation except I do it with the doors. It is a traditional look but has good staying power. Again, this is only my opinion but I have done plenty this way. If everything is equal it can look very boring. The proportions of the horizontal to the vertical look better, in my opinion. Beaded face frame cabinets also sell for more money.ΔΆ" stiles and 1-1/2" rails. Beaded face frames are easiest of all because it's really hard to see an alignment problem when you juxtapose square edges to round corners. This is different than making a matrix of a dozen door or drawer faces line up across a room. Your doors and drawer face alignments only have to look good within the context of one opening at a time. Once you start doing flush inset you will discover some other advantages. Figure out what looks good then get good at reproducing that. The important thing is to develop a system for your math. This way you can interchange Blum Tandem slides with Accuride Side Mount slides. The holes for our drawer slides always situate 37 mm from the top side of the bottom face frame element. This is also the number that drives everything else. This is a percentage that works well with counters that are 36-37 or 38 inches tall. Note that the top drawer is typically 15% of the overall floor to counter height. Where we use 57 mm for a shaker door we switch to 64mm for an ogee door. Once you figure them out for a particular genre of cabinetry you can focus on another issue. Good proportions are something that sneak up on you and make you feel good about being in the room. In every case the bottom rail on the door is heavier than the top rail. Mullions are smaller than stiles and muntins are smaller than mullions. Stiles are the same size as bottom rails. Note that the size of the individual elements change based on where they situate on the face frame. If we have a shaker style project these are our typical proportions. The dimensions for the cabinets are established parametrically. It's all based on rules and the rules change based upon conditions. If you change the countertop height, the rest of math is upgraded automatically. We've written some software that chases a lot of this math for us. We have some really simple systems for doing this. About half of these jobs have butt hinges and the other half are a combination of Blum and Salice. Our typical cabinet is flush inset with a full face frame. I use 1-1/2" stiles and rails, beaded or not. On beaded inset, the bead amount is added to the 1-1/2" width, which is usually 3/8" with the 1/4" bead normally used. For overlay jobs, the reveal between all doors/drawers is 1/2". I use 1-1/2" for all stiles and mid rails, regardless of frame style. What sizes are the rest of you using? So far I haven't done any beaded frames. I have used the same stile and rail width on the first few inset jobs out of habit but it seems like they are too wide proportionally with the inset doors, so now I have gone to using all 1-1/4 inch stiles and rails and it looks better. For the overlay doors I have been making all perimeter rails and stiles 1-3/4 inches and all middle stile and rails at 2-1/4 inches, so I end up with 1-1/4 inch of all of the stiles and rails exposed with my 1/2 inch overlay doors. In the past I have been building exclusively overlay face frame cabinets, but lately I have been getting some inset door jobs.
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